CREAMY-GOAT-MILK-AND-HONEY-SHAVING-SOAP-BAR

MAKE CREAMY GOAT MILK AND HONEY SHAVING SOAP BAR

in this article, we will see make creamy goat milk and honey shaving soap bar:

GENTLE
MOISTURIZING
NUT-FREE

START TO FINISH TIME:
1 to 2 hours,
24 hours insulation,
4 to 6 weeks to cure 

SCENT: CEDARWOOD, BERGAMOT

I’ve tried to use shea lotions and other oils as shaving creams, but they usually gum up the drain and tub. This shaving bar is formulated to create a creamy, low-bubble lather that gently coats the skin while conditioning and moisturizing, making this a wonderful-feeling body and face bar. I’ve chosen cedarwood and bergamot for a bright, clean scent, but feel free to substitute 1 total ounce of your favorite essential oil(s) to give it the scent that you prefer.

SAFETY FIRST! Remember to wear your safety equipment and mix the lye water outside. Tell everyone you live with that where you’re working is off limits. Give yourself enough time to complete the recipe.

EQUIPMENT

  • Kitchen Scale
  • Glass Bowls
  • Measuring spoons
  • Blender or food processor
  • Large spoon
  • Large stainless steel pot
  • Small zip-topplastic bag
  • Mold
  • Thermometer
  • Parchment Paper
  • Stick Blender (or hand mixer)
  • Rubber Spatula
  • Blanket

INGREDIENTS

  • 450gr (15 ounces) Olive Oil
  • 150gr (5 ounces) Goat Milk
  • 240gr (8 ounces) Babassu Oil
  • 90gr (3 ounces) Cocoa Butter
  • 180gr (6 ounces) Castor Oil
  • 90gr (3 ounces) Shea Butter
  • 128gr (4.25 ounces) Lye
  • 250gr (8.3 ounces) Water
  • 15gr (0.5 ounce) Cedarwood Essential Oil
  • 15gr (0.5 ounce) Bergamot Essential Oil
  • 1 Tablespoon Raw Honey

PREP AHEAD:

Combine the water and goat milk in a large glass, plastic, or stainless steel container. Place the container in the freezer for 1 to 2 hours. It is okey if a slush forms, as long as it doesn’t freeze solid. The colder your milk-water, the lighter your soap will be after adding the lye.

1. HEAT THE FATS/OILS:

In a large pot, combine the olive oil, babassu oil, castor oil, shea butter and cocoa butter. Heat over medium-low heat until they are melted and incorporated. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to 100°F(38C°) to 110°F(45C°).

2. MIX THE LYE WATER:

Put on safety gear, including protective eyewear, a mask, gloves, and long sleeves. Outside, very slowly pour only about 1/4 of the lye crystals into the cold milk-water and stir until dissolved. Let cool for 20 minutes. Repeat until all the lye is dissolved into the milk-water. If the milk-water browns, don’t worry; your soap will just be darker. Allow to cool to 100°F(38C°) to 110°F(45C°). If the oils and lye water cool at different rates, you can use a cold- or hot-water bath in the sink.

3. PREPARE THE MOLD:

While the oils and lye water cool, line the mold with parchment paper.

4. COMBINE AND BRING TO TRACE:

When both the oils and lye water are 100°F(38C°) to 110°F(45C°), carefully pour the lye water into the pot of oils. Use a stick blender (or hand mixer) to mix for 1 to 2 minutes and then let the mixture rest for 4 to 5 minutes. Repeat mixing and resting until light trace.

5. MIX IN NATURAL ADDITIVES:

When the soap reaches light trace, add the cedarwood and bergamot essential oil and honey, and blend for 30 seconds.

6. MOLD THE SOAP:

Pour the soap mixture into the mold, cover with a lid or parchment paper and insulate with a blanket for 24 hours. Do not insulate unless your house is below 75°F(24°C), in which case insulate by placing a towel around the outside edges of the mold to avoid a partial gel.

7. CUT AND CURE:

Remove the soap from the mold. If it seems too soft to remove, wait another 12 to 24 hours before removing. Cut the soap into 12  bars. Allow the bars to cure in a well-ventilated location for 4 to 6 weeks.

TIP: Milk can scald when lye is added. Placing the milk-water in the freezer until it’s very cold helps prevent this. Be sure to add the lye slowly. It is okay to really take your time, coming back every 20 minutes to add a little more. Milk can also make your batch get hotter than usual, so just insulate a milk recipe lightly with a towel if you’re concerned about getting a good gel for color. Honey can also make soap come to trace faster, so add it and blend really well right before pouring the soap into the mold.

Sources / References

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Kelly Cable

  • The Natural Soapmaking Book For Beginners
  • DIY Soaps: Using All-Natural Herbs, Spices & Essential Oils

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